3/10/2024 0 Comments Advance analog dial timing lightYou always time the mark on zero on the tab, so if you want 18 deg advance, you set your ignition to 18 degrees advance (which would show the mark 18 degrees ahead of zero with a regular light) program the gun with 18 degrees of delay (ie: make the strobe 18 degrees behind or out of phase with the actual spark) so that you are still timing to the same 0 mark instead of a scale. These require a timing light that has a degree dial. Some don't have scales on the tab, they just have a single mark. If it was 12 deg instead, you'd adjust the distributor (or knob or whatever means the ignition system allows) to advance more, and you'd see the stationary line move under the strobe and you'd dial it in until it showed 15.Īll it's doing is showing you a freeze frame of crank position in degrees BTDC at the time the spark occurs, the definition of ignition timing. Say you want 15 deg BTDC and wanted to confirm, you would note if the crank mark is at the 15 deg mark on the tab. But if you were to adjust timing while firing the strobe you would actually see that stationary line move up and down the scale on the tab in proportion to your timing adjustments. ![]() If you just strobe the crank pulley you will see a static line landing at some spot on the stationary indicator tab. When you adjust timing, you are changing the part of the crank that is captured on the strobe by making the light flash early or late. It will also flash in the same spot every time making the crank appear to stand still. I just know that on my engine, I cannot use a digital light-I have to use the older style analog light.Not sure if it's clear to you yet, but when you change ignition timing you also change when the light flashes since it uses the spark plug wire as a trigger. I have NO idea why this worked and why my fancy digital light makes it read 20 degrees to far advanced. I tried this and with this older analog light, the timing was no longer way advanced-the reading was right where it should be and I was able to time the car with no problem. MSD had also responded that some newer digital lights do not read properly when connected to the higher voltage MSD systems and he said to use an analog timing light instead. I dug out my old Sun light that I paid $5 for and gave it a try. We tried several different digital timing lights and all said the same thing-they said that I was about 20 degrees too high even though the motor ran like it was timed pretty close to perfect.Ī TC member then recommended that I use an older analog timing light. I changed timing tabs, checked TDC, seperated my wires, rechecked my balancer, etc and the motor was always way too far advanced (according to the timing light). I installed a 383 with MSD HEI and we had a heck of time trying to set the timing with a digital dial back light-it was always about 20 degrees too far advanced. Doesnt seem like it would start well with mid 30s initial, but I guess that wouldn't be different than running a locked out distributor at same setting, correct. Seems unlikely to me that the motor would run well, at least for very long with total advances up in the 50s. Where I'm headed is to try to determine if this is just a light issue, a situation where my inductive lights give false readings due to the MSD multiple spart system, BEFORE I spring for a big dollar MSD light. MSD also says to keep the twisted distributor wires away from all other wires, which I have not done, will change that to see if that makes a difference in light issue. I have read other posts from guys who have stated same thing. ![]() I read in the MSD book that spark duration is 20 degrees with the MSD multiple spart setup, except at high RPMS, MY timing seems to read about 20 degrees high with both of my timing lights. When I set timing at 18 initial, engine runs okay, but seems retarted, If I turn the distributor to advance it more, it runs much smoother, starts okay still without kickback, and the light will show about 34-36 degrees initial and FIFTY FOUR or so total. ![]() MSD 6AL, MSD Pro-Billet, mechanical advance only, 18 degrees initial, 18 degrees mechanical, no vacuum. ![]() Correct balancer top dead center was established correctly at assembly, cam was degreed in, all double and triple checked.
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